Toronto Pearson International Airport(YYZ)

San Jose International Airport(SJO)

Bello Horizonte, San Jose, Escazu, Costa Rica

This was the hotel that Ghezala, and I first visited upon arriving to San Jose. It was a short UBER ride away from the airport, and was under lock, and key until the gentleman at the front desk came, and let us in. Once inside the main gate we were greeted by several wild cats, and a small dog. We were certainly nervous about travelling alone in this foreign country for the first time but together we felt more comfortable to be out, and about.  

Bello Horizonte, San Jose, Escazu, Costa Rica

This was the villa that we stayed in. Inside it featured a kitchen, 3-piece bathroom, a king bed, and a single bed.  Unfortunately while we did book a double bedroom it seems they gave away our room away as we arrived so late from Toronto, and this was all they had left. It was fine for one evening, and we loved the unique feel of the space so that definitely made up for that. If you use any credit card rewards programs you may be able to find this on their list of properties to book with your points which made this a great booking overall. 

Bello Horizonte, San Jose, Escazu, Costa Rica

This was the beautoful view just steps away from our room. The hotel was up on the mountain side so we could look down over San Jose, and see all of the twinkling yellow lights of the nightlife here. The infinity pool was beautiful but as we checked in so late after our arrival, and checked out very early we didn't get to enjoy it. 

Bebedero, San Antonio, Costa Rica

This is a must try for any tourists in San Jose. We found this after a quick google search, and were on our way. The outside was an empty dirt parking lot with no signage, and we walked down a dirt path behind some other patrons to find this hidden gem. Once inside we were guided down several hallways past the indoor dining areas to the most upper level. 

This restaurant had this typical gingam pattern on all of the tables which reminded me a lot of an Italian restaurant. The server was super friendly, and informative when asking about the meals, and recommended some very good choices to us. Here we got a mixed platter for two with costilla BBQ, chicharones, salchichon, yuca frita, frijoles molidos, patacones, pico de gallo, and papas tiquicia. 

Hands down this was the best steak that I had the entire trip in Costa Rica. It was perfectly cooked inside, and not rare(I like my foot to be cooked through), with a side of sweet plantain, fried cassava, pico de gallo, and of course a Costa Rican staple- beans with tortilla chips.

Cancha de Futbol de San Isidro is a soccer park in the middle of San Isidro. It is surrounded by benches, shrubbery, and various statues. Here we see a woman nursing her baby which is very reminiscent of Mother Mary. As it is just steps away from the Iglesias San Isidro Labrador I imagine that it a homage to women, and motherhood. She is up ontop of the pedelstal which is a significant placement to her role as a woman. I noticed that in many places women carried out traditional female roles such as cooking, cleaning, and mothering but there were often times they also took on typical male roles such as farming, carring for the animals, creating manure, or in my homestay where Ligia's husband Martine would also share in the cooking, or cleaning of the home. This wasn't universal though, and we often saw women who's roles were within their homes only, they didn't have access to education, or work outside of the home, and they depended on their husbands to work to support themselves.  Specifically in this festival we observed that all of the luxury vehicles were driven by men, and the women were allowed to ride the animals, and ox carts only. 

I arrived at Iglesias San Isidro Labrador just in time to see hundreds of priests dawning their white robs, and saying prayers in Spanish just on the otherside of the main doors. One man who presumably must be a bishop came in, and they placed a special headpiece on him. A quick glimpse inside showed that all of the pews were full of parisioners, and I crowded into the doorway with about a hundred other people to watch the ceremony. As soon as the headpiece was placed one priest thanked us all in Spanish, and they closed the doors because they were clearly at capacity. This church was structurally beautiful, and a landmark in this city. It was certainly a good feeling to be able to be apart of this festival in this way even if just for a moment.

This bull in particular caused everyone to move back from the road, and make way for him. He could hardly keep his head up, and as you can see from the red eyes glaring at me he was not happy to be here this day. The owners were very brave to lead this bull on but I am sure if given the chance he could've definitely moved himself where he wanted to go.

I can't say that I saw many of these cars while driving on the city streets so it was lovely to see all of the vintage, and luxury vehicles out on the road. In San Jose I used UBER to get around but the further away I went from the main city the more secluded we were with limited access to transportation to go anywhere. My homestay didn't have the luxury of a vehicle so it severely limited their ability to access resources in the community. They relied solely on the food they grew in their backyard to feed themselves, and us. Seeing these extreme variables of poverty, and wealth in Costa Rica was very similar to the life I have experienced growing up in Toronto. 

Unfortunately with living so deep in the mountains in Quizarra there was only a couple of convenience stores about a forty minute walk away from our homestay, and no grocery store anywhere within walking distance. It really means that as a resident in this community you are dependent upon developing your own food sovereignty to grow, and harvest foods as well as planning in advance how, and where you'll be able to get your staple items such as salt, pepper, milk powder, or other items that aren't being grown in the backyard. While I grew up without a car I had the ability to walk to a nearby grocery store, or take public transit to one. 

This was Jorge Manen. We were watching the bulls walk down, and I struck up a conversation with him in Spanish. Jorge had been at work since 4:00AM, and was waiting for the festival to begin. He was able to walk over on his lunch break, and take in the festivities. We chatted until his break was over, and he went back to work. After speaking with my homestay we determined the minimum wage was about c1500 Colones or $3.69 Canadian per hour. On average an unskilled worker is earning $300-$500 Canadian dollars per month. It was clear to me that this was the highlight of Jorge's time at work that day, and he looked forward to the event year after year. He especially enjoyed watching us Canadian tourists be shooed from the roadside by the police, and telling us to watch out for the bulls, and horses. 

For Jorge I imagine that he was a city person whereas the festival had lots of "campasinos" or "peasants" as they are offered referred to as an insult. It is used against rural community members to imply that they lack knowledge, and understanding. We could see the social status of families in the way they adorned the heads of some of the ox with fancy materials, and by how well fed they were. Those who could afford to would paint their carts, and freshen them up while others displayed worn, and weathered pieces of wood. 

We met at this restaurant on the first day of our course for lunch. This was my first time experiencing Costa Rican coffee prepared this way. It was very tasty, and definitely more potent that the cheap stuff we often find in Toronto. It was after this first cup that I decided I would find mysef my own chorreador de cafe to bring home with me. 

Every morning Ligia would rise around 4:30AM. She would prepare breakfast for Ghezala, and I, and on weekdays wait for her grandson Devin to be dropped off around 5:00AM. This was her chorreador de cafe that she or Martine would use to prepare coffee, and then she poured the metal tin into the green thermos pictured in the background to keep the coffee warm for us when we got up. Typically I would wake up at 6:00AM for school, or work in Toronto however in Costa Rica with the two-hour difference I found I was waking up around 5:15AM each morning. I would quickly get ready for the day, and then join Ligia at the table for a fresh cup of coffee, and to practice my Spanish with her. I left Costa Rica feeling very fluent in Spanish, and this was attributed to the use of Google translator, and the daily practice I got by sitting with Ligia, and sharing stories with each other about our lives. 

The server at this restaurant was lovely. They prepared the coffee like this at your individual table, and despite the language barrier we were able to communicate with each other easily which was a nice feeling. Being in a foreign country it certainly felt like the right thing to do to try, and learn some of the language to communicate with the locals.

We visited the York University Eco campus about four times during our stay. It's quite a nice building with very good washrooms, a kitchen, and stellar views of the biological corridor. A local employee-Gretal was introduced to us on the first day, and she would always be busy in the kitchen making snacks, and drinks for us while we were visiting. Gretal's family owned a coffee farm where they would bag, and sell their coffee beans- Glosbe Cafe. Her coffee was very tasty, and I always enjoyed the comfort food she served us.

This was a cappuccino from Cafe Pan. I seldom purchase cappuccino's but this was certainly one of the highlights of my trip. Sitting outside in the beautiful, warm sunlight, and sipping on the fresh made brew was a nice feeling after such an eventful day. While I enjoyed my treat alone I appreciated the quiet space to reflect on my time away, and the goodness that was Cafe Pan.

Each morning I was blessed with a tasty breakfast meal from Ligia's kitchen. It never failed to include a hot cup of coffee, and while the mugs changed the flavours did not. For us though this was more than just a cup of coffee. It was a way for us to connect before a long school day, and to better understand each other. We spoke of our families histories, shared stories of our children, and discussed our favourite meals. It was always a pleasure to be welcomed at her table, and to experience what life was like for them in Quizarra. 

Before heading off to class one day I asked Ligia what the best coffee was in her opinion in Costa Rica. She said that the number one choice of hers would Rey Selecto. Its a red bag with a photo of the King of hearts on the front sipping a cup of coffee. I managed to pick up a bag for her during a visit to San Isidro which she kindly shared with us the following day. My first time having coffee with her I asked if she had leche(milk) which she did not. I realized that they don't use fresh milk or cream, and instead had a coffee whitener that they used to lighten their coffee. If they needed milk for something they would use powdered milk. I didn't mind the coffee whitener at all but powdered milk brought me back to my childhood growing up in Toronto where that was all we had, and definitely something I don't want to try again. You're humbled very quickly when living with someone in Quizarra because it is a community where people are surviving on very little. 

After drinking some of the best coffee over the two weeks I was in Costa Rica I was able to grab a few cups at the San Jose International Airport (SJO) before my departure to Toronto. I hate to say it but the coffee, and food all around was not comparable to the local eats I had been enjoying. This particular one was complimentary from Air Canada after our flight was delayed due to technical difficulties they were having, and overall will not be missed! My takeaway from this is to try coffee, and food from anywhere except the airport!

Every evening I could always count on a fresh, nutritious meal to be waiting for me. Ligia prepared chicken breast, rice, diced tomatoes, and the green fruit is a type of orange from their backyard. It was very good, and a nice treat after a long day.

One of the other students- Aswan got me into these. We stopped off at a convenience store near the beginning of our trip where he purchased about a dozen packages of penguinos. He explained that the double chocolate, and cookies, and cream flavours were rare to find, and that the prices were cheaper in the mountains as opposed to purchasing them at the airport. I took his advice, and tried these hostess cake which were without a doubt the best packaged snack I had the entire trip. 

This was the local coffee shop that was run by a group of approximately forty-five women residing in the local community. Together they created Cafe Pan which was most famous for it's "elephant ear" pastries(a thin, flaky bread covered in sugar), and delicious take away coffee. I visited here twice where I enjoyed cakes, pastries, and coffee during my stay.

Peasant's food that was served to us wrapped inside of a banana leaf. This warm meal consisted of plantain, tortilla, rice, beans, and chicken. It was served at the backyard of a family living steps away from the Biblioteca La Casita Azul in Perez Zeledon. The banana leaf adds a unique flavour to the meal, and was a staple item for farm workers to carry with them into the fields for their lunches. 

A tasty seafood meal. It was over this dish that I first met the students I would spend the next few weeks with. It has a delicious smell, and the sizzle coming from the hot plate was definitely one to be remembered. 

In Costa Rica they have sinks in many of the restaurants, on the street, and in local markets. This allows you to go, and wash your hands before, and after eating a meal without going to the bathroom. I loved this idea but also noticed that dependent on where a sink was located some would use it to brush their teeth, wash their faces, or even bathe in public. They were always stocked with liquid hand soap something I found was a luxury item to have in Quizarra, and was not able to be found anywhere near the homestay I was in. 

Our journey from San Jose to Quizarra was around five hours. After spending loads of time behind one motion sick student I was relieved to finally get off of the bus, and into a space where we could stretch our legs, and try some food. I was able to get this chicken breast that had been boiled in tomato sauce over rice. It wasn't a favourite of mine but it wasn't terrible either. What I did enjoy most(and don't have a photo of) was the tasty cappucino they made with Nescafe coffee. We stopped here once more on the way home but unfortunately for me the coffee machine was no longer working. I did get a regular coffee but it wasn't as delicious as the Nescafe I had tried two weeks earlier. I appreciated that within this long journey there was such a bustling truck stop with a wide variety of hot foods to choose from. Many people worked there, and it was an opportunity to check out from the long drive taken earlier while travelling. 

This was our first meal as a class while travelling to our homestays. There were several counters stocked with a variety of foods. On my way back to San Jose I opted for a beed empanada. I assumed it would be ground beef similar to a Jamaican beef patty but in actuality they were made with shredded roast beef.

This bread was prepared for us while visiting Marvin's farm. It was from Coffee Pan in Santa Elena. Some of them tasted like an egg bread, and the others had cheddar cheese sprinkled on top.

This was the first meal I enjoyed at my homestay. It was a slice of pan with arroz, frijoles, huevos y platano. 

Arroz, frijoles, huevos y tortillia. This was served most mornings as the breakfast, and in a variety of ways. One thing was for certain, and that was if you are in Costa Rica be prepared to eat the staple foods. In my own home we eat plaintains several times a year fried when ripened as that's when they're the sweetest so I enjoyed eating those the most!

These were fresh buns that my homestay Ligia prepared one morning for us. She was always busy cooking, and rarely was asleep when I was living with her. Each day she would prepare something new, and as all of the food she served mainly came from their backyard there was no shortage of tasty meals to be made. 

This was one of several packed lunches I had enjoyed. Chopped green beans, carrots, mashed potatoes, and breaded chicken breast. My homestay Ligia would wake up around 4:30AM to prepare each meal from scratch. It was then careful wrapped in a tea towel, and ready for a hot lunch while at school.

In our homestay sour cream was used on everything. It took a few days before I realized that it was sour cream as the texture is different from what I am used to in Toronto. I was very confused when I first tried it as it was the texture of a custard but tasted similar to mayonnaise. 

Snake fruit that was found in a local food market. It is a tropical fruit grown in Indonesia known as Salak, and grows on palm trees there. This is a sign of imported goods to the region, and not something grown locally from a farmer there. One tip shared to us in the market was to look at the hands of the seller- those with worn, dirty hands were farmers, and those who were clean, and often well dressed were resellers, or wholesalers. As my husband is a mechanic his hands are often a sign of the hard labour he endures. This was easy for me to spot while walking through so that I could ensure my own funds spent were with those who were farmers in the surrounding community.

Here is another example of the lunches that Ligia packed for us. This one consisted of rice, a fried egg, plantains, and beans. Food sovereignty also means to avoid food waste. While I may have enjoyed a lot of repeated dishes I felt it was important to also not waste the food provided to me. On this day I striggled to eat everything as eggs are not a huge favourite of mine so upon returning home Ligia left the remainder out for their Chihuahua Suzy to enjoy.

This was a traditional vegatable soup that was prepared with chick peas, beans, cucumber, and tomatoes. It was the only soup that I tried during my trip, and was very refreshing, and a nice change to the heavier meals that were being prepared for us. 

I found these fries inside a local bar and restaurant in Perez Zeledon- actually the only place like it that existed in this rural community. It was about a forty-five minute walk away from my homestay, and boasted a full menu of fast food staples- chicken wings, fish fritters, french fries, and a variety of beverages were all they offered but it was nice to find something similar to fast food in here. This particular place had been closed for two years, and opened up just a couple of days dining here.

This was sold during the EXPO Cobas Festival, and was prepared by the women, and men of the local community. There was a piece of baked cassava, plantain, chicharron, and a handmade tortilla. My homestay Ligia's sister was up the night before carefully making all of these for the festival. 

This traditional breakfast was fried rice, and beans, an sunnyside up egg, and a tortilla with cheese.

This was another breakfast dish prepared by Ligia, and a first for me. Two slices of white bread with refried beans, and a fried egg in the middle.

These banana filled empanadas were prepared at the EXPO Cobas Festival by the local community members. I enjoyed eating meals here because there were a wide variety of items to choose from, and they were all tasty. 

During our visit to Marta's Farm we were served a delicious lunch prepared with Organic food from their farm. There was chicken breast with potatos covered in tumeric, ensalada(salad), black beans, rice, and tortillas.

Behind the dining area was where all the magic was happening. These pork chops tasted very different from the ones I have tried in Toronto, and were almost like a steak. Definitely loved that they were smoked outside on a homemade barbeque, and were very tasty at the EXPO Cobas Festival.

This was a meal that Benam prepared for our homestay one evening. It was a traditional pasta with a tomato, and red wine sauce. It was enjoyed by everyone around the table that evening, and it was enjoyed by all.

Here was the beginning of frying some frozen basa fillets that we picked up in a supermarket in San Isidro, and used to make fish tacos for our homestay family. 

 A fresh cut pineapple that was enjoyed one morning while waiting for our driver to pick us up, and bring us to the school bus for our daily adventure.

We purchased far too many of these premade tortilla's for our tacos so these left overs were perfect for delicious quesadilla's for breakfast the next day.

This chayote was cut thinly, and battered with raw egg before being fried with oil. This was the first time I tried one of these. 

One of the meals I tried at La Feria. Here was a mix of chicharron, mashed potatoes with gravy, plantain, and cheese stuffed noodles. 

This chopped cauliflower was seasoned, and used as a filler inside of handmade tortillas at Marta's Farm. 

Made by the Indigenous People in Boruca as a snack for our group. We had fresh cut watermelon, and these sweet fried pieces of bread that were sprinkled with sugar.

During one of our visits to the Las Nubes Eco Campus we shopped, and prepared several dishes for our group. There was mushroom stuffed peppers, pasta, garlic bread, schnitzel, and a manzana de aqua(water apple) cheesecake I prepared. This was a nice way to come together as a class, and share our individual talens wether it was from meal prep, setting the table, or clean up. Together we crafted a piece of our own story of our time in Costa Rica.

One of the vendors in the farmers market foodcourt. They had a variety of tasty items, and on this day made Empanada's for our group to try.

Made with fresh banana's from their backyard this was a very delicious banana bread with butter.

These were simmering away at the farmers market where you can purchase these to make homemade tomato sauce, chilly, and soups.

I think that these were ginger snap cookies but never the less they were made by Gretal for us at the Las Nubes Eco Campus. They paired very well with the fresh coffee she made for us.

Pork chop served with a tortilla, plantain, and a plantain stuffed Empanada at the EXPO Cobas Festival.

These fresh strawberries were picked up for my homestay from the farmers market. They were about c5000 colones for this bag which would be roughly $12.00 Canadian for this bag.

I alternated between gatorades, and Tropical juices during my trip. This was very refreshing after a long day outside in the heat.

These were harvested from my homestays backyard. I chopped them, and used them to create a compote with sugar, and water that would be used over top of the cheesecake that I prepared.

These warm churros were served up during the San Isidro El Labrador Festival from one of the pop up vendors.

While visiting Hania's farm we were served a refreshing dessert with three layers of a red jello, mango jelly, and creamy topping. Topped off with edible flowers from their Organic farm. 

Found at Cafe Pan this bread pudding cake was soaked with sugar, and covered in caramel, and peanuts. 

Another traditional meal of friend plantains, rice, and large thick cut of queso(cheese)! I would never eat this much cheese at one time like this so it was interesting to try this meal. Something new!

When I came down to Costa Rica I didn't know who I would be staying with, or where so I had to pack homestay gifts in a strategic way so that they could be enjoyed by all. I brought sugar free maple syrup, and the following day Ligia prepared these "crepes" for us.

These fried shrimps, and chips were served at the local bar & restaurant in Perez Zeledon. 

This was some of the premade dough that was brought out for us to use.

Here we were shown how to roll, and cut the flaky pastry dough.

We used these metal rolling pins, and an abundance of sugar to coat our bread.

As mentioned they were in need of a new industrial oven which they said affects the quality of the baked goods they're preparing. The finished elephant ears were delicious, and despite the needs of the business they were still able to prepare a variety of foods.

This was a popular drink that I found was sold in all of the convenience area's or restaurants.

These were pizza buns, a cappuccino, and a the bread pudding cake mentioned above.

Sugar cane field in Marvin's Farm.

Some of the products being sold including ground coffee, tumeric, black pepper, pepper corn, paprika, chocolate bars, and cocoa powder.